Archives for posts with tag: Oklahoma

I’m told that the first years of retirement are for travel, before your body or your mind gets too weak and you just don’t feel like making the effort any more. Before I get depressed by that thought, I’m thinking back over the wonderful places I’ve been in my life and wondering which way to go this year with almost an entire year stretched before me.

One thing I’ve learned is that you don’t have to go far to find beauty, history, and interesting people and stories. Last year, way back in 2013, I explored some areas of my home state of Oklahoma that I’d never passed through in my 68 years here. I also travelled to the northwest and the southeast. Maybe this year, I’ll go northeast and southwest. Or all of them. I’ve travelled to other countries in my lifetime and have plenty of places to add to my global wish list. Right now I’m loving our country, which I can never get enough of, so I spend my cold evenings with my iPad in hand, searching maps and places, trying to narrow down where to go, knowing that new opportunities will be there as the days progress.

For your winter dreams, here are sunrises and sunsets in various places. . .

Oklahoma sunset

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Naples, Florida sunrise

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Pass Christian, Mississippi sunset

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Smokey sunrise over the Grand Canyon

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Texas sunset

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Sunrise over Depoe Bay, Oregon

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Sunset over San Francisco Bay from Oakland

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Sunset over the Grand Tetons, Wyoming

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Sunset over Nye Beach, Oregon

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And, another Oklahoma sunset to top it off. . .

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May your 2014 be filled with sunrises and sunsets in all the places you dream of.

When you live in a city, you need to leave every now and then, travel the quieter spaces of rural areas. Every state and country has them and you need to be there to get a true perspective on what a region is about. You need to put the crazy ways of the city up against the quiet ways of the country and understand the people who inhabit both.

I’d never really been in Southwest Oklahoma, so I went. Staying in Quartz Mountain Resort, in the middle of agricultural and cattle lands, traveling to Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, a national treasure, and driving through the small towns and rural roads was a trip that taught me much more about my state, adding to what I know and love about our country.

I love the county seats, like Cordell, with its beautiful county courthouse in the middle of the plaza. This one is on the national historic register, designed by the same architect who designed the state capitol.

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I love the towns that still have their Carnegie libraries, like Lawton.

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Lawton has destroyed their historic downtown, replacing it years ago with a mall, but they did keep the lovely home of Mattie Beal, a young telephone operator from Kansas whose name was drawn in the land lottery, giving her the means to become one of the city’s most beloved benefactors.

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I love the little touches of the past preserved, like this Phillips station in Altus.

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And this stop light in Hobart.

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And the little towns that were built on hope and never really went anywhere. Who wouldn’t like to say they are from Indiahoma, Oklahoma? Say what?

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Or Gotebo, pronounced Go’-Tee-Bow, where the most going business is dog grooming from the looks of things.

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I love the little old movie theaters like the Redskin in Anadarko, a mostly Native American community, where they can get away with politically incorrect things like that,

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and the Washita in Chickasha…a mouthful…

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I love small town holiday decorations like these in Roosevelt

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or these original street light decorations in Chickasha

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And I love the rural roads

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taking me through wide open spaces littered with the past

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and the present

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through areas of great agriculture. I had no idea how much cotton we grow in Oklahoma or that we harvest until December…

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The rural areas bring you the peace of the end of the day. I love the sun going down in Hobart with its important grain elevators.

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And you find humor in the most unexpected places…like this guy in Roosevelt…

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I’m back in the city, but always thankful for those rural areas that provide the perspective I need…

This is the time of year when my husband would go quail hunting and come home with not only birds, but a special treat. He would shoot down a clump of mistletoe from high in a tree and bring it to me to hang in the house for the holidays. It was a treat to me because he was so proud of himself and would hold it over my head for a kiss before he hung it over a door. It wasn’t the mistletoe, it was the look on his face that I loved. Big ole guy with his clump of mistletoe, a romantic at heart.

There is a tree in my neighborhood with a lot of mistletoe this year. Mistletoe’s a parasite, a holiday tradition, the Oklahoma state flower, and that combination makes me smile. My morning walk takes me by that tree and I have sweet memories each time I pass it.

May someone hold mistletoe over your head this season!

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Fall used to mean hunting season in my family. My grandfather started hunting as a boy in Kentucky and must have hunted for 60 or 70 years. After being in Kentucky, I picture him with his brother, bringing home a mess of birds for the family dinner. He taught my father to hunt and my father taught my brother and then my husband who taught my son.

Not everyone in the family loved it, but those who did loved it with a passion. It was the whole experience that they loved, I think. They were bird hunters, quail mostly. My grandfather hunted pheasant, too, and my husband and father went on a couple of prairie chicken hunts. My husband hunted duck about once before he gave that up as not the same experience. And dove hunts came later.

First, there were the dogs, pointers and setters, smart and loyal to the end. I remember a long line of hunting dogs through my life with short names to call them easily in the fields. Buddy, Guy, Tim, and our favorite name of all, Grandpa. My daddy got Grandpa from a man who had named him that because he thought he acted like an old grandpa. We always delighted in calling “Grandpa” to bring him home. When my husband died, he left me with Tim, the ever loyal and loving English Setter who was his last hunting pal. When I finally felt he needed to be where he could hunt and run, I gave him to one of the men who had hunted with them often. Tim looked at me once before he left that day and then jumped up with his paws on my shoulders to look me in the eye as if to tell me Thank You. It was a moving moment with a sweet dog.

You couldn’t hunt quail very well without the dogs, so they worked with them all the time. Before hunting season even began, there were the days when they just went to run the dogs and get them ready. I think the men just liked to watch them work, running the fields with such abandon, spanning out for a mile and returning quickly at the sound of the whistle. It was all part of the experience.

Here’s one that must have belonged to my grandfather, maybe to my father, way back when.

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Finding a field to hunt was another ritual. My husband spent a lot of time looking for fields that were likely places and checking with the owners to see if it was allowed. For a long time, he and my father had private use of a property about an hour away where they hunted and our family fished the pond. Later, when my father had quit, he hunted with buddies in rural areas in northern Oklahoma. They knew all the hunters in the county and found lots of good places.

The night before the hunt was spent on the phone making the arrangements, oiling the gun and boots, packing the vehicle, a pickup in later years, laying out the clothes, the jackets with pockets for shells and game. It was a ritual, part of the deal.

I could hear him leave in the morning with his thermos of coffee, the only time he liked to get up early being for a hunt. I could hear him say “Kennel” and the dog would jump into the back of the truck or car, ready to go, tail wagging. Time to drive through the dark to reach the fields at dawn.

Dove hunts started September 1 in Oklahoma and you need as many hunters as you could to work a field. No dogs on this one. Quail hunts were smaller with as many dogs as you trusted to do the job. Walking those fields on cold fall mornings breathed life into the hunters I knew. They loved bringing home the game, but they loved being outdoors walking, working the dogs, watching the birds fly just as much. On the days when they came home almost empty handed, there was the same excitement because of the day they’d had.

Another ritual was the hunters’ breakfast in small rural towns, filled with hunters coming in after the first run of the morning, telling the stories, eating the huge breakfasts provided at bargain rates in those great little cafes. It was another part of the deal.

Then there was the homecoming, cleaning the birds, cleaning the gun for the next time, cleaning the mud off the boots, packing away the jackets and gear. My husband even liked to cook the game, using his Hasty-Bake in its finest way. He got a great dove recipe from someone he met in a field and we couldn’t wait. I can’t tell you how I miss having game to eat these days.

Some people don’t like hunting in any form, but it was such a part of my family that I understood. They were actually some of the greatest conservationists I knew since the last thing they wanted was for a species to be over hunted.

This fall, as I drive through the countryside, I study those fields and imagine the men I loved walking through them with the dogs running ahead. I understand their love of the land, of the rituals, of the season, of the hunt. I miss all of it. I miss them.

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Rain was predicted, but it didn’t look like driving, thunder and lightning rain, so it was time for an adventure. Heading south, past the interstates, into the Kiamichi Mountains in southeast Oklahoma sounded like the best way to start a day. Through rural areas onto beautiful roads through the mountains, Oklahoma size mountains. After lunch in Talihina at a cafe filled with locals where the $5.50 lunch special could fill the hungriest cowboy, Choctow, tourist or other locals in the area, the destination is off to the most beautiful fall foliage in the state…Winding Stair National Recreation Area and the Talimena National Scenic Byway.

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The color of the foliage got brighter and brighter as we drove, even on a cloudy, misting day.

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The winding drive along the ridge is stunning on either side, looking out over lush valleys. On a day like today, you get Oklahoma’s version of the smokey mountains with blue layers of mountains in the distance.

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Around every corner, there is more color rising above you, glowing through the light rain and fog.

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The forests are filled with more color and texture as you take the side roads into new viewing areas.

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Bursts of vivid colors make this area and its vegetation different from other parts of the state.

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Today, the fog stopped us from going further and on into Arkansas.

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But, it cleared as we headed down for a final view of the blue mountains ahead.

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The famous Talimena Drive never disappoints, no matter what the season or the weather. Today’s fog and rain made it a magic day to remember!

Will Rogers is about as Oklahoman as you can get. Part Cherokee, Oklahoma born, a state and national treasure. I grew up knowing about Will Rogers, visiting the memorial in Claremore several times. Later I worked in Claremore for a short time and visited it whenever I could. I even worked with some of Will’s descendants, many still living in the area. I had also been to his birthplace and have read several biographies, the best ones, in my opinion, being “Our Will Rogers,” by Homer Croy, an old friend, and “Will Rogers,” by Betty Rogers, his wife. In California, I visited his home with the polo fields and the comfortable house that I’d seen in photos.

Yesterday, I happened to be in Oologah and stopped by his birthplace for a random visit. The house was moved from its original location when Lake Oologah was developed, flooding the original 60,000 acre ranch owned by the Rogers family. Today, it is a beautiful 400 acre location high on the shores of the lake and lovingly cared for. It’s so unassuming for something so special. You barely see the sign on Hwy 169 in Oologah that tells you to turn and cross the railroad tracks, heading down a country road. The entrance to the Dog Iron Ranch is simple.

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The house was called The White House of the Verdigris, the river that became the lake. It stood proud on the prairie, a testament to the hard work of Clem Rogers and his wife, Mary.

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When you read the biographies, you know that Will lived a wonderful life in that home. Standing by the room where he was born, peeking into the parlor where his parents entertained visiting politicians, family friends and the young people of the area as his mother played the piano and they sang in front of the fireplace, I could feel them all. I pictured the dances in the dining room when they rolled up the rug or pulled taffy in front of the stove. It was as good a life as you could have in those times. Hard work, clean living, loving family, fun times together.

Listening to the love in the video narrated by Will Rogers, Jr., you have to feel proud of this family who contributed so much to our state and to the youngest child, the son who became the pride of a nation.

This happened to be a beautiful fall day, gorgeous to walk and enjoy the fall colors around the grounds and the lake. The barn was built in 1960 by Amish carpenters who used the techniques of the original barn. There were horses saddled and ready to ride, chickens running around and a couple of longhorn steers in the corrals. There are only fifty of them now rather than the 10,000 that Will worked with in his cowboy days on the ranch.

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The guestbook recorded visitors from around the world who know of Will Rogers and came to see where he had his beginnings. Oklahomans continue to visit, remembering his life into the next generations. That was comforting to me, because it would be a sad world that didn’t remember the wisdom of this man who touched so many. In the end, it was a lovely stop on a gorgeous day.

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Well worth a stop if you’re ever near Oolgah, Oklahoma. Here’s a favorite Will Rogers quote for today…

“Do the best you can and don’t take life too serious.”

I keep wondering if I ever had a year when I didn’t appreciate everything around me? When I was younger, did I drive by all the beauty in a couple of decades of endless carpools and meetings and kids? I don’t think I did. I hope I didn’t. I only know I appreciate all the beauty more every year now and this beautiful world takes my breath away every day.

Tulsa is exploding with colors. The cities are often prettier than the country because people plant trees for their seasonal colors. We’re having a kind of late fall because it’s been so unseasonably warm, no freeze yet. But the color is coming every day. You drive by a tree one day and it’s green, the next day it’s changing colors, the next day it’s brilliant. Every errand is a trip through beauty. I want to stop along the way with my camera to catch it all. I’ve taken pictures before, but it’s different every year. Trees change shapes, the colors and go, it’s a new world.

One of my maples is turned, the big one is just now changing. My pecan tree hasn’t even started to turn its gorgeous yellow. But here are some colors around my yard…

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I love the beauty berry…

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And some more trees around the neighborhood…

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Even the vines turn colors…

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This tree never disappoints…

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As the leaves thin out, you can see clumps of mistletoe ready for the holidays. Oklahoma’s state flower, even though it’s a parasite…we do have a sense of humor here…

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It’s a beautiful fall day when the skies are a clear blue and even the fallen leaves are lovely, not yet a nuisance to be raked.

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For those of you who don’t have four seasons, this is for you. For the rest of us…get out and look around you. It’s another glorious day…

Last week, I went to the cabin of a friend along with two other friends, all of us Oklahoma born. While driving an hour out of town, we started talking about how beautiful the state is, one friend calling it underrated, with a diverse landscape that we appreciate. All of us are well-traveled, spanning the world, so it’s not like we haven’t seen the beauty of the Swiss Alps, the Mediterranean, the Colorado Rockies, the national parks, and on and on. We love it all. But we still feel tied to this land where we were born.

We had a stunningly beautiful afternoon to enjoy all that was around us…I love the rivers, creeks, scrub and blackjack oaks in rural Oklahoma. Fall hadn’t touched it yet, but it’s on the verge.

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Our roots are important to us no matter how many times we pull them up. I recently traveled with two friends, one who lives in Tulsa, born in Portland. She will forever be an Oregon girl. Our other friend has lived in so many places, including Tulsa, on so many continents, that she has to put down her roots over and over. I don’t know how that feels…I can’t imagine. She adapts well. What I understand is that we do feel connected to our land, to our environment and we find peace in it. There is something that pulls at our hearts from the land we have inhabited, the land where we grew up. In it, we find our true selves, we’re stripped bare. For those who move around, it must be a different feeling, one of making those connections wherever you are at the time, mixed with memories of where you’ve been. Neither one is better, they are just a part of us.

I will share the places of the heart with my Okie girls, with my friends whose roots are elsewhere, whenever I can. We need the places, but we also need the people. Peace…

A friend once told me to watch for the “Magic Moments” when I traveled, meaning the treasures you stumble onto while you’re winding along your planned route. Here’s a little one I had near Broken Bow, OK.

Having worked in a big museum for over seven years, until I retired last fall, I’m well aware of what goes on behind the scenes of exhibitions and collections. I also have a great appreciation for the little museums that are sometimes passed by without a second thought, the ones that you never think you “have to see” while you’re in the area. Outside of Broken Bow, in southeastern Oklahoma near the Mountain Fork River, is the Gardner Mansion Museum. I saw the signs, read about it in the tourist websites, but almost missed it and that would have been a shame. What drew me in was the sign about the 2,000 year old Cypress tree on the grounds. I’ve seen lots of old houses and mansions, so I might have skipped it but for the tree.

I called first and got no answer, but saw the gate open while passing by. You can’t see the house from the highway so you go through the farm gates and up the road. When you reach the house, you see a sign to honk for help. I’m sure we had been seen because there was a truck headed our way as we parked the car.

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An elderly man and a younger man, probably his grandson, got out of the truck and we paid our admission fee. This was definitely a smaller staff than the museum where I had worked.

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We walked to the house…

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and he unlocked the door, walking to a chair where he sat down on the glassed in porch. There was a display of dinosaur bones and beautiful huge hunks of quartz. The information by each one said it was found in the area. When we started asking questions, our guide opened up and told us his history as well as shared his knowledge of the treasures we were seeing.

The Gardner Mansion was the home of Jefferson Gardner, a much beloved chief of the Choctaw Nation. He had built his home on this site in 1881, completing it in 1884, on this site that was part of the Trail of Tears for his nation. In 1922, the Stiles family had purchased the property and have maintained and preserved it for three generations. We were visiting with Mr. Stiles himself, the current curator of this museum. He told us stories of the Choctaw and of the dinosaur bones he had found as a child on the property. One had been found just recently. He explained to me how you get the quartz out of the ground, showing off a piece about a foot or more across that a long time friend had found and given him right before he died.

After a bit, I guess we passed muster, so we were taken into the main house. I’m not sure if you get past the porch if he doesn’t trust you. He unlocked the door and we entered the main areas where there were more artifacts to see. In the kitchen, I found lots of old utensils and dishes of the era. In the living room, he showed us a model of the house and photos of Chief Gardner and others, telling stories of the indians as we looked around. Here’s Mr. Stiles showing us some items, including the hand-carved staircase and other Choctaw craftsmanship used in the home…

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Once again, I guess we asked the right questions, because we were taken upstairs. There was a treasure trove of indian artifacts including ancient tools, arrowheads, and natural items from the land. I stupidly didn’t see the signs in front of me saying no pictures, so I took a few. Later, I apologized to him, but he said it was ok. He didn’t want too many getting out because the items are quite valuable. Not like he has a security force there, so I understood and won’t pass those along. Here’s some of the hornet nests he’s collected during his life (he’s been on the property since he was 5)…

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He showed us some ancient tools he’d recently found. The cows kick up the ground and these kinds of antiquities rise to the surface. Really a remarkable collection.

After we left the house, we drove to see the 2,000 year old Cypress. He showed us a picture of it with a man dwarfed by the trunk, much like the Sequoias in California. Unfortunately, the tree had fallen last year. Trees die, as Mr. Stiles said. We went to see it anyway, although it turned out there wasn’t much left. Nature was reclaiming its own.

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The area had other large Cypress and you could picture the Choctaw trudging through the land, searching for the place where they could stop and live their lives in peace. Very ethereal back in the woods, along the water.

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On the way back to the house, we stopped to snap a picture of the cemetery. Mr. Stiles and his grandson had chores to do, so we didn’t want to keep them. Wouldn’t you love to know the stories of those buried here?

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If you’re ever in this remote area, stop and visit the Stiles family. Or find another magic moment along the way, wherever you’re traveling. It makes your trip so much richer…

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It’s almost August: Osage County, but not quite. Yesterday, I drove to the Tallgrass Prairie late in the afternoon. It was an unusually cool day for July in Oklahoma, mid-80s. I wanted to take advantage of the beautiful day and end it in one of my favorite places in the world, places that are away from the crowds, where you hear the quiet. I’m not the only one who enjoys them, it’s not like I discovered them, but I can stand alone and feel the universe.

It takes awhile to get out there, especially if you’re using the lesser traveled roads. From Tulsa, you travel through lush blackjack and scrub oak forests, which were especially green after the storms we’ve had this week. Usually, late in the summer, it’s dry and dusty. You drive through little towns that have seen better days when the oil boom of the 1920s and 30s was in full force.

The town of Pawhuska, the official gateway to the Tallgrass Prairie, is also the seat of the Osage Indian Tribe. I love this town with all its original buildings sitting mostly empty. You can see what it was and you can see the potential for a wonderful restoration of the blocks of early structures. Right now, the Drummond family, including our own Pioneer Woman, Ree Drummond, is restoring one of the largest. I hope it is the first of many for this place. You head north, up a steep hill, and upwards towards the prairie.

As I left the more populated areas, I saw the beginnings of the prairie and stopped to watch the bees at work in a field of purple wildflowers.

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The gates into the preserve are simple…

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and then there is the plaque to start your visit…

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and the welcoming sign.

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You might think the preserve is flat, but it’s rolling and you drive along a not quite paved two lane road. I stopped at the first turnout…

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As I got out of the car, I was overwhelmed with the silence. Except for the sound of the slight breeze, the buzzing of bees, and the singing of birds, it was silent in a way you never get in the city, only in these places that feel sacred in their purity. This is what it was like before man came.

The first time I came was in the winter. I came to this spot and literally raised my arms to the sky for the peace it placed in my heart that day. The next was in the fall where I stood in this same spot and watched buffalo graze…

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Once I was here alone and was surrounded on the road by the buffalo herd as I sat in my car staring back at the shaggy beasts a foot from me. I should have been afraid, especially since I read that those 2,000 pound beasts can jump 6 feet straight in the air or at you. But the time I was surrounded, we were all at peace with each other and they went their way and then I went mine. Other times, I’ve seen the herd beside the road, mothers with calves, big shaggy beasts with eyes that watch you without blinking. This time, I saw the herd in the distance in a couple of places, peaceful in their natural habitat as they should be.

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I did get a glance from the other herds in the area with these two eyeing me from the side of the road…

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I drove slowly along the road, stopping to get out and admire the creeks and flowers…

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and watch the butterflies flitting and the meadowlarks, hawks, and other birds swooping in the late afternoon…

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I thought this was a bird because of the size, but even blowing up the picture, I’m not sure what I saw..

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An interesting cloud formation caused me to stop…

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and then head for home. One of those afternoons that restores your soul…

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